From the Research
For anti-aging purposes, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are typically recommended at concentrations between 5% and 10% for daily use products, while professional treatments may use concentrations up to 30-50%. Beginners should start with lower concentrations around 5% and gradually increase as skin tolerance develops. The most common AHAs include glycolic acid (the most effective due to its small molecular size), lactic acid (gentler and more hydrating), and mandelic acid (suitable for sensitive skin) 1. When using AHAs, apply them after cleansing and before moisturizing, preferably in the evening, and always follow with sunscreen during daytime as AHAs increase sun sensitivity. These acids work by exfoliating the skin's surface, removing dead skin cells, stimulating collagen production, and improving skin texture and tone. They help reduce fine lines, even skin tone, and improve overall skin appearance by accelerating cell turnover. For optimal results, consistency is key, and visible improvements typically appear after 4-6 weeks of regular use.
Some key points to consider when using AHAs for anti-aging purposes include:
- Starting with lower concentrations and gradually increasing as skin tolerance develops
- Using AHAs in combination with other skincare products, such as moisturizers and sunscreens
- Being aware of potential side effects, such as irritation and increased sun sensitivity
- Choosing the right type of AHA for individual skin types and concerns, such as glycolic acid for fine lines and wrinkles or lactic acid for dry skin
It's also important to note that the effectiveness of AHAs can depend on various factors, including concentration, pH, and individual skin type and concerns. As stated in a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, treatment with AHAs caused an approximate 25% increase in skin thickness and improved the appearance of photoaged skin 2. Additionally, a review of the current knowledge regarding AHAs summarized their chemistry, mechanism of action, and different indications, ranging from cosmetic skin hydration to acne proven by clinical trials 1.
In terms of specific concentrations, a study published in Molecules found that the mechanisms of AHAs are currently well understood, aiding the development of novel approaches for the prevention of UV-induced skin damage, and that whether AHA is a friend or foe of human skin depends on its concentration 3. However, the optimal concentration of AHAs for anti-aging purposes is still a topic of debate, and more research is needed to determine the most effective concentrations for different skin types and concerns.