Stepwise Treatment of Acne Vulgaris
Start all patients with a topical retinoid (adapalene 0.1-0.3% or tretinoin 0.025-0.1%) plus benzoyl peroxide 2.5-5% applied once nightly and once daily respectively, then escalate based on severity and response. 1
Step 1: Assess Severity Using Standardized Scale
- Use the Physician Global Assessment (PGA) to consistently classify acne severity as mild, moderate, or severe 2, 1
- Evaluate for scarring, post-inflammatory dyspigmentation, and psychosocial impact, as these factors warrant more aggressive treatment regardless of lesion count 2, 1
Step 2: Mild Acne (Comedonal or Minimal Inflammatory Lesions)
First-line therapy:
- Topical retinoid (adapalene 0.1% gel or tretinoin 0.025% cream/gel) applied once nightly to completely dry skin PLUS benzoyl peroxide 2.5-5% gel applied once daily 1, 3
- Adapalene is more photostable and can be used with benzoyl peroxide, while tretinoin should be applied in the evening due to photolability 1, 4
Alternative options for specific situations:
- Azelaic acid 15-20% gel twice daily for patients with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or Fitzpatrick skin types IV or greater 1, 3
- Salicylic acid 0.5-2% for patients who cannot tolerate retinoids, though evidence is limited 3
Critical pitfall: Never use topical antibiotics as monotherapy for comedonal acne—they are ineffective against comedones and promote bacterial resistance 3
Step 3: Moderate Acne (Mixed Comedonal and Inflammatory)
First-line therapy:
- Continue topical retinoid + benzoyl peroxide as foundation 1
- Add fixed-dose combination topical antibiotic with benzoyl peroxide (clindamycin 1%/BP 5% or erythromycin 3%/BP 5%) applied twice daily 2, 1
Alternative for adult females:
- Topical dapsone 5% gel is particularly effective for inflammatory acne in adult females (no G6PD testing required) 1
Key principle: Always combine topical antibiotics with benzoyl peroxide—never use antibiotics alone due to rapid resistance development 2, 1
Step 4: Moderate-to-Severe Inflammatory Acne
First-line triple therapy:
- Oral doxycycline 100 mg once daily OR minocycline 100 mg once daily (doxycycline has stronger evidence) 2, 1, 5
- PLUS topical retinoid once nightly 1, 5
- PLUS benzoyl peroxide once daily (mandatory to prevent antibiotic resistance) 2, 1, 5
Duration limits:
- Limit systemic antibiotics to 3-4 months maximum to minimize resistance development 1, 5
- Subantimicrobial doxycycline (20 mg twice daily to 40 mg daily) may be used for longer duration if needed 1
Adjunctive option for rapid improvement:
- Intralesional triamcinolone acetonide for larger nodules at risk of scarring provides rapid pain relief and inflammation reduction 2
- Short-term oral corticosteroids can provide temporary benefit while starting standard therapy for severe inflammatory acne 1
Step 5: Hormonal Therapy for Female Patients
Indications:
- Hormonal acne patterns (jawline/lower face distribution) 1
- Premenstrual flares 1
- Patients who cannot tolerate or prefer to avoid oral antibiotics 1
Options:
- Combined oral contraceptives at standard contraceptive dosing (62% reduction in inflammatory lesions at 6 months) 5, 6
- Spironolactone 25-200 mg daily (no potassium monitoring needed in healthy patients without risk factors) 2, 5
Step 6: Isotretinoin for Severe or Treatment-Resistant Acne
Indications:
- Severe nodular or conglobate acne 2, 7
- Moderate acne with scarring or significant psychosocial burden 2
- Treatment-resistant moderate acne after 3-4 months of appropriate therapy 1
Dosing:
- Standard: 0.5-1.0 mg/kg/day targeting cumulative dose of 120-150 mg/kg 5
- Low-dose alternative: 0.25-0.4 mg/kg/day for moderate treatment-resistant acne with fewer side effects 5
- Daily dosing preferred over intermittent dosing 2
Monitoring:
- Monitor only liver function tests and lipids—no routine monitoring for depression or inflammatory bowel disease needed based on population studies 2
- Mandatory pregnancy prevention for persons of pregnancy potential through iPledge program 2, 8
Key advantage: Isotretinoin is the only drug affecting all four pathogenic factors of acne (sebum production, ductal cornification, bacterial colonization, inflammation) 7, 9
Step 7: Maintenance Therapy After Clearance
Standard maintenance:
- Continue topical retinoid monotherapy once nightly indefinitely to prevent recurrence 1, 3, 5
- Add benzoyl peroxide 2.5-5% once daily if baseline disease was more severe 5
Critical principle: Topical retinoids prevent new microcomedone formation and are essential for maintaining clearance 3
Managing Side Effects and Optimizing Tolerability
Retinoid irritation (dryness, peeling, erythema):
- Start with lower concentrations and increase as tolerated 4
- Apply to completely dry skin 20-30 minutes after washing 4
- Reduce frequency to every other night initially for sensitive skin 4
- Apply daily moisturizer and sunscreen every morning 4
Benzoyl peroxide bleaching:
- Warn patients about bleaching of fabrics and hair 1
- Lower concentrations (2.5%) cause less irritation with similar efficacy to higher concentrations 1
Critical Pitfalls to Avoid
- Never use topical or oral antibiotics as monotherapy—resistance develops rapidly without concurrent benzoyl peroxide 1, 3, 5
- Never extend oral antibiotics beyond 3-4 months without re-evaluation and transition to maintenance therapy 1, 5
- Never underestimate severity when scarring is present—these patients warrant more aggressive treatment including consideration of isotretinoin 2, 1
- Never apply tretinoin to wet skin—wait 20-30 minutes after washing for skin to be completely dry to minimize irritation 4
- Never combine tretinoin with benzoyl peroxide in the same application due to photolability (use adapalene instead or apply at different times) 1