Do topical retinoids (retinoic acid) increase collagen production?

From the Guidelines

Topical retinoids do increase collagen production in the skin, as evidenced by their ability to improve lentigines and reduce wrinkles, according to the British Association of Dermatologists' guidelines 1. The use of topical retinoids, such as adapalene 0.3%, tretinoin 0.1% and 0.05%, and topical isotretinoin 0.1%, has been shown to have a modest benefit in improving skin appearance, including a reduction in wrinkles and an improvement in skin firmness 1. These products work by stimulating fibroblasts to produce more collagen, particularly types I and III, which are essential for skin structure and elasticity.

• Key benefits of topical retinoids include:
  • Improvement in lentigines
  • Reduction in wrinkles
  • Increased collagen production
  • Enhanced skin firmness
• When using topical retinoids, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as tolerated to minimize irritation, and to apply a pea-sized amount to clean, dry skin, followed by moisturizer 1.
• It is also important to use sunscreen daily while using retinoids, as they can increase sun sensitivity.
• The collagen-boosting effect of topical retinoids occurs because they accelerate cell turnover, reduce matrix metalloproteinases that break down collagen, and directly stimulate new collagen formation, leading to improved skin thickness and reduced fine lines over time 1.

From the Research

Topical Retinoids and Collagen Production

• Topical retinoids have been shown to increase collagen production, which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles associated with photoaging 2, 3.
• Retinoids regulate cell apoptosis, differentiation, and proliferation, and promote keratinocytes proliferation, which can help to strengthen the protective function of the epidermis and restrain transepidermal water loss 2.
• Retinoids also protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity, which can help to improve the appearance of photoaged skin 2.
• The use of topical retinoids, such as tretinoin, has been shown to be effective in the treatment of photoaging, with improvements in skin texture, pigmentation, and appearance 4, 5, 6.
• Retinoid derivatives, such as retinol, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde, are also efficacious, safe, and well-tolerated, and can be used in cosmeceutical formulations to promote skin rejuvenation 3.

Mechanisms of Action

• Retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis, leading to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging 3.
• Retinoids have a high affinity for nuclear receptors, such as RAR and RXR, which are involved in the regulation of cell growth and differentiation 2.
• The activation of these receptors can lead to the increased production of collagen and other extracellular matrix components, which can help to improve the appearance of photoaged skin 2, 3.

Clinical Evidence

• Studies have shown that topical retinoids can improve the appearance of photoaged skin, with significant improvements in skin texture, pigmentation, and appearance 4, 5, 6.
• The use of topical retinoids has also been shown to be safe and well-tolerated, with minimal adverse effects reported 4, 5, 6.
• The efficacy of topical retinoids in the treatment of photoaging has been compared to other topical therapies, with retinoids showing significant improvements in skin appearance and texture 5, 6.