From the Guidelines
The most effective topical compound for anti-aging skincare is topical retinoids, particularly adapalene 0.3% and tretinoin 0.01% and 0.05%. These compounds have been shown to demonstrate a modest benefit in improving lentigines and reducing wrinkles, with sustained use rather than limited course treatment 1. The use of topical retinoids is supported by the British Association of Dermatologists' guidelines, which recommend their use for the care of patients with actinic keratosis, with a strength of recommendation B and level of evidence 1+ 1.
Some key points to consider when using topical retinoids for anti-aging skincare include:
- Adapalene 0.3% has been shown to be significantly more efficacious than adapalene 0.1% in achieving AK count reduction after 9 months 1
- Tretinoin and isotretinoin are prescribable in the U.K. only in 0.025% and 0.05% concentrations, respectively, as topical antibiotic 1
- Topical retinoids may lend some additional benefit with respect to improvement in lentigines and reduced wrinkles, in addition to their use in treating actinic keratosis 1
It is essential to note that while other topical compounds like vitamin C, peptides, and niacinamide may also be beneficial for anti-aging skincare, the most recent and highest quality evidence supports the use of topical retinoids, particularly adapalene 0.3% and tretinoin 0.01% and 0.05% 1.
From the Research
Topical Compounds for Anti-Aging Skincare
The most effective topical compounds for anti-aging skincare include:
- Retinoids, which have been used for decades to treat photoaged skin 2, 3
- Vitamin C, which has been shown to improve facial wrinkles and radiance when combined with peptides 4
- Peptides, which can help to improve cell turnover and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles 4
- Niacinamide, which can enhance the activity of retinoids and improve skin hydration 2
- Flavonoids, such as those found in Ceratonia siliqua extract, which can enhance the activity of retinoids and improve skin appearance 2
Key Findings
- A combination of retinyl propionate, niacinamide, and Ceratonia siliqua extract has been shown to enhance retinoid response and improve skin appearance 2
- A formulation containing peptides and vitamin C has been shown to improve facial wrinkles and radiance 4
- Retinol-containing products have been shown to have a mild ameliorating effect on fine facial skin wrinkle lines, but the evidence is limited and methodologically flawed 3
- A comprehensive skin care routine has been shown to outperform a simple routine in improving skin hydration, skin roughness, and wrinkle depth 5
Mechanisms of Action
- Retinoids work by activating retinoic acid receptors and increasing cell turnover 2
- Vitamin C works by improving collagen synthesis and reducing oxidative stress 4
- Peptides work by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity 4
- Niacinamide works by enhancing the activity of retinoids and improving skin hydration 2
- Flavonoids work by enhancing the activity of retinoids and improving skin appearance 2