From the Guidelines
Compounded anti-aging creams in dermatology are customized topical formulations created by pharmacists that combine multiple active ingredients to address various signs of aging, such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation, and are typically prescribed by a physician and made to order by compounding pharmacies. These personalized preparations typically contain a mix of prescription-strength ingredients such as retinoids (like tretinoin), alpha hydroxy acids, antioxidants, peptides, growth factors, and other active compounds that cannot be found together in commercial products 1. The advantage of compounded creams is that they can be tailored to an individual's specific skin concerns, skin type, and sensitivity level, allowing for personalized concentrations and combinations that might work more effectively than over-the-counter options. For example, a dermatologist might prescribe a compounded cream containing 0.025% tretinoin, 4% niacinamide, 5% vitamin C, and 2% hydroquinone to simultaneously address wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation.
- The scientific rationale behind these formulations is that combining multiple active ingredients with different mechanisms of action can provide synergistic effects, targeting multiple aspects of skin aging simultaneously while potentially reducing irritation through careful formulation.
- However, compounded products lack the rigorous testing of FDA-approved commercial products, so quality and consistency can vary between pharmacies.
- Some studies have shown the efficacy of certain ingredients in anti-aging creams, such as retinoids, which have been shown to be effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles 1.
- It's also important to note that the use of compounded anti-aging creams should be done under the guidance of a physician, as they can prescribe the appropriate combination and concentration of ingredients based on an individual's specific skin concerns and needs.
From the Research
Definition of Compounded Anti-Aging Creams
Compounded anti-aging creams are customized topical formulations designed to address the signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles, fine lines, and skin discoloration. These creams typically contain a combination of active ingredients, including:
- Hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties 2
- Retinoids, such as retinaldehyde, which activate retinoid receptors and increase cutaneous elasticity 2
- Antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection 2
- Niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence 2
- Peptides, which can stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity 3
- Flavonoids, which can enhance the activity of retinoids and improve skin appearance 4
Key Characteristics
The key characteristics of compounded anti-aging creams include:
- Customized formulation to address individual skin concerns and needs
- Combination of active ingredients to provide synergistic effects
- Topical application to target specific areas of the skin
- Potential to improve skin appearance, reduce signs of aging, and enhance skin health
Mechanisms of Action
The mechanisms of action of compounded anti-aging creams involve:
- Inhibiting tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, elastase, and collagenase to reduce skin aging 5
- Scavenging free radicals to prevent oxidative stress and skin damage 5
- Enhancing skin hydration and viscoelasticity to improve skin appearance 2
- Modulating metabolism to increase the activity of retinoids and improve skin health 4