From the FDA Drug Label
Each gram contains:Tretinoin 0.05%, stearic acid, isopropyl myristate, polyoxyl 40 stearate, stearyl alcohol, xanthan gum, sorbic acid, butylated hydroxytoluene, and purified water. Each gram contains:Tretinoin 0.1%, stearic acid, isopropyl myristate, polyoxyl 40 stearate, stearyl alcohol, xanthan gum, sorbic acid, butylated hydroxytoluene, and purified water. Each gram contains:Tretinoin 0.01%, butylated hydroxytoluene, hydroxypropyl cellulose and alcohol, (denatured with tert-butyl alcohol and brucine sulfate) 90% w/w.
The key compounded agents used in anti-aging skincare, as per the provided drug labels, are:
- Tretinoin (retinoic acid) 1, 1, 1
- Stearic acid 1, 1
- Isopropyl myristate 1, 1
- Polyoxyl 40 stearate 1, 1
- Stearyl alcohol 1, 1
- Xanthan gum 1, 1
- Sorbic acid 1, 1
- Butylated hydroxytoluene 1, 1, 1
- Hydroxypropyl cellulose 1
- Alcohol (denatured with tert-butyl alcohol and brucine sulfate) 1
From the Research
The key compounded agents used in anti-aging skincare include retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), vitamin C, peptides, and niacinamide, with retinoids being the most effective in slowing the aging process, as evidenced by their ability to regulate cell apoptosis, differentiation, and proliferation 2.
Key Compounded Agents
- Retinoids: increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, typically applied nightly with results appearing after 8-12 weeks of consistent use
- Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs): exfoliate dead skin cells and improve skin texture, usually incorporated into cleansers or serums used 2-3 times weekly
- Vitamin C: a potent antioxidant that brightens skin and protects against free radical damage, best applied in the morning under sunscreen
- Peptides: help signal collagen production and repair skin
- Niacinamide: reduces inflammation, improves barrier function, and diminishes hyperpigmentation
Mechanisms of Action
- Retinoids: affect gene expression to normalize cell function, as shown by their high affinity for nuclear receptors: RAR - retinoid acid receptors and RXR - retinoid X receptors 2
- AHAs: dissolve intercellular bonds between dead skin cells
- Vitamin C: neutralizes free radicals while inhibiting melanin production
- Peptides: serve as cellular messengers
- Niacinamide: regulates oil production while improving barrier function
Clinical Evidence
A study published in 2021 found that a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C was effective in treating signs of facial aging, with significant improvements in wrinkles and skin radiance 3. Another study published in 2019 highlighted the importance of retinoids in anti-aging skincare, citing their ability to regulate cell apoptosis, differentiation, and proliferation 2.
Recommendations
For best results, introduce these ingredients gradually into your routine to minimize irritation, and always pair with daily broad-spectrum sunscreen as many increase sun sensitivity. It is also important to note that the effectiveness of these ingredients can vary depending on individual skin types and concerns, and therefore, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine the best course of treatment.