Treatment of Melasma
The most effective first-line treatment for melasma is triple combination cream containing 4% hydroquinone, 0.05% tretinoin, and 0.01% fluocinolone acetonide, with 77-94% of patients achieving clear or almost clear skin. 1, 2
Treatment Algorithm
First-Line Therapy
Triple combination cream (4% hydroquinone, 0.05% tretinoin, 0.01% fluocinolone acetonide)
Mandatory sun protection
- Broad-spectrum SPF 70 or higher daily
- Inadequate sun protection is the most common reason for treatment failure 1
- Continue indefinitely, even after clearing
Second-Line Options (if no improvement after 8-12 weeks)
Alternative topical agents:
- Azelaic acid (15-20%)
- Kojic acid
- Non-hydroquinone formulations containing:
- Tranexamic acid
- Vitamin C
- Arbutin
- Niacinamide 1
Oral tranexamic acid
- 250 mg twice daily for moderate to severe cases resistant to topical therapy
- Requires monitoring for thromboembolic risk 1
Chemical peels
- Glycolic acid or salicylic acid
- 3-4 sessions spaced one month apart 1
Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy
- Intradermal injections
- Protocol: once monthly for 3-5 sessions
- Shown to be more effective than intradermal tranexamic acid 1
Monitoring and Follow-up
- Evaluate response every 4-6 weeks using standardized photography
- Assess using Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) score
- Adjust treatment if no improvement after 8-12 weeks 1
- Consider intermittent hydroquinone use for recurrences
Important Considerations and Pitfalls
Depth of Pigmentation
- Determine if melasma is epidermal, dermal, or mixed to guide treatment
- Epidermal: appears brown/black, responds better to treatment
- Dermal: appears blue, more resistant to treatment
- Mixed: most common type, may require combination approaches 1, 3
Skin Type Considerations
- Higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in darker skin types
- Use caution with aggressive treatments in Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI 1
Safety Concerns
Hydroquinone limitations:
- Avoid prolonged use beyond 6 months due to risk of ochronosis (blue-black discoloration)
- Carcinogenesis concerns have led to restrictions in many countries 1
Laser therapy cautions:
- Use with extreme caution in darker skin types
- Risk of worsening hyperpigmentation and causing atrophic scarring 1
Common Pitfalls
- Discontinuing treatment too early (melasma is chronic and often recurs)
- Inadequate sun protection (critical for preventing recurrence)
- Using aggressive treatments that can worsen hyperpigmentation
- Not addressing underlying hormonal factors when present 1, 3
Pathophysiology Insights
Melasma involves complex pathology beyond simple melanin overproduction, including:
- Photoaging
- Increased mast cells
- Increased vascularization
- Basement membrane damage
- Nearly 300 genes differentially expressed from healthy skin 3
This complex pathophysiology explains why treatment is often challenging and requires a multi-modal approach with strict adherence to therapy and photoprotection.