From the Guidelines
Salicylic acid effectively unclogs pores by dissolving excess oil and exfoliating dead skin cells, as supported by moderate certainty evidence from a recent RCT 1. When applied topically, salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), penetrates deep into pores due to its oil-soluble properties, breaking down the bonds between skin cells and dissolving sebum.
- The recommended concentration of salicylic acid for acne treatment is between 0.5% to 2%, as stated in the guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris 1.
- Salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties, which help reduce redness and swelling associated with acne, and its use has been conditionally recommended based on moderate certainty evidence from a recent RCT 1.
- The acid works by lowering the skin's pH, creating an environment where acne-causing bacteria struggle to survive, and regular use helps prevent future breakouts by keeping pores clear of debris and excess oil.
- As noted in the study, a 0.5% salicylic acid concentration showed a 25% greater reduction in inflammatory lesions and an 11% greater reduction in open comedones compared to a vehicle at 12 weeks 1.
- It is essential to start with lower concentrations, especially for sensitive skin, and gradually increase application frequency as tolerated, to minimize potential side effects such as mild dryness or peeling during initial use.
From the FDA Drug Label
Salicylic acid has been shown to produce desquamation of the horny layer of skin while not effecting qualitative or quantitative changes in the structure of the viable epidermis. The mechanism of action has been attributed to a dissolution of intercellular cement substance
The effect of salicylic acid on a pore is that it dissolves the intercellular cement substance, which can help to unclog pores by breaking down the substance that holds dead skin cells together.
- Desquamation of the horny layer of skin can also help to remove dead skin cells from the pore, potentially reducing its size and improving its appearance. 2
From the Research
Effects of Salicylic Acid on Pores
- Salicylic acid has a comedolytic property, which makes it useful for treating acne by reducing the number of primary lesions and thereby the number and severity of all lesions associated with acne 3.
- The ability of salicylic acid to exfoliate the stratum corneum and disrupt cellular junctions makes it a good agent for peeling, which can help to unclog pores 4.
- Salicylic acid can help to reduce the appearance of comedonal acne, which is a type of acne that occurs when pores become clogged with dead skin cells and oil 5, 6.
- The use of salicylic acid-based products has been shown to be effective in improving acne lesions, reducing personal discomfort related to acne, and improving the appearance of lesions 6.
Mechanism of Action
- Salicylic acid works by breaking down the keratin protein that holds dead skin cells together, allowing for a deeper penetration into the pores and helping to unclog them 4.
- Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, which can help to reduce redness and swelling associated with acne 3, 6.
- The combination of salicylic acid with other ingredients, such as glycolic acid, can enhance its effectiveness in treating acne and improving the appearance of pores 5.