From the Guidelines
Topical peptides like acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) should be applied once or twice daily to clean, slightly damp skin, focusing on areas with expression lines and wrinkles, to stimulate collagen production and reduce wrinkles. When considering the use of these peptides for skin aging, it's essential to understand the changes that occur in the skin as we age, including the loss of subcutaneous fat, downward sagging of soft tissues, and impaired regeneration capacity of various tissue types, as noted in a 2025 study on autologous platelet concentrates in esthetic medicine 1.
Key considerations for using topical peptides include:
- Starting with a pea-sized amount of a product containing 5-10% concentration of these peptides
- Applying to the entire face, with focus on areas with expression lines and wrinkles
- Using consistently for at least 8-12 weeks to allow for gradual stimulation of collagen production and inhibition of muscle contractions that cause wrinkles
- Combining with other skincare ingredients like hyaluronic acid for hydration, antioxidants for protection, and retinoids for enhanced collagen stimulation, while taking care to use retinoids and peptides at different times of day to prevent potential degradation
- Applying sunscreen during daytime use to prevent UV exposure from diminishing peptide effectiveness and counteracting their anti-aging benefits
- Patch testing first, especially for those with sensitive skin, as peptides are generally well-tolerated but may occasionally cause mild irritation.
It's also important to note that the visible signs of aging, such as wrinkles and skin laxity, are often related to underlying causes at a deeper tissue level, including deep fat atrophy and vascular degeneration, as discussed in the 2025 study 1. Therefore, a comprehensive approach to addressing skin aging may involve combining topical peptides with other treatments, such as platelet therapies or fat grafting, to address these underlying causes and achieve optimal results.
From the Research
Topical Peptides for Skin-Aging
- Topical peptides, such as acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) or palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), are considered valuable compounds for removing reactive oxygen species (ROS) to prevent skin ageing and maintenance of skin health 2.
- The effects, classification, and transport pathways of anti-ageing peptides and proteins across skin are summarized and discussed in various studies, including a review of the latest advancements in the dermal delivery of anti-ageing proteins and peptides 2.
Mechanism of Action
- Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) is a cosmetic ingredient that interferes with neuromuscular signaling as its anti-wrinkle mechanism of action, and its skin penetration has been determined in hairless guinea pig and human cadaver skin 3.
- The majority of the Ac-EEMQRR-amide was washed from the surface of both hairless guinea pig and human skin, and the peptide that penetrated skin remained mostly in the stratum corneum 3.
Formulations and Efficacy
- Various formulations, such as emulsions and gels, have been developed to deliver anti-ageing peptides, including acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), and their stability has been evaluated 4.
- A topical formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in ampoules has been shown to improve skin aging signs, including forehead wrinkles, crow's feet wrinkles, and skin hydration, in a large, international, observational study 5.
Types of Peptides
- Short peptides, including matrikines, carnosine, collagen peptides, cytokine and growth factor analogs, defensins, immunoprotective peptides, and polyfunctional peptides, have geroprotective properties and can regulate skin function during ageing 6.
- Polyfunctional peptides, such as AcSDKP, KED, AEDG, and AED, have been shown to slow apoptosis, stimulate skin cell proliferation, and increase functional activity of skin fibroblasts, making them a promising area of research in molecular gerontology 6.