From the Guidelines
Retinol plays a crucial role in skincare by reducing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin texture, unclogging pores, fading hyperpigmentation, and stimulating collagen production, as evident from its use in various dermatological treatments, including psoriasis, as seen in the joint AAD-NPF guidelines of care for the management and treatment of psoriasis with topical therapy and alternative medicine modalities for psoriasis severity measures 1. The benefits of retinol in skincare are numerous, and its proper usage is essential to maximize its effects while minimizing potential irritation.
- Key benefits of retinol include:
- Reducing fine lines and wrinkles
- Improving skin texture
- Unclogging pores
- Fading hyperpigmentation
- Stimulating collagen production
- Proper application techniques involve starting with a low concentration (0.25-0.5%) and applying a pea-sized amount to clean, dry skin 1-2 times weekly, gradually increasing frequency, as retinol increases sun sensitivity, and it is recommended to use it at night and apply sunscreen during the day 1. Some studies have explored the use of retinoids in various skin conditions, including psoriasis, where tazarotene, a topical retinoid, has been shown to be effective in treating mild to moderate psoriasis, with significant improvement in the Nail Psoriasis Severity Index 1. However, it is essential to note that the use of retinoids can be accompanied by potential irritancy, and caution should be exercised when combining them with other active ingredients, as seen in the guidelines for the management of lichen sclerosus, where the use of topical retinoids is recommended with caution due to the risk of irritancy 1. In terms of chemoprevention of skin cancer, the use of topical retinoid has been explored, but the results are mixed, and more research is needed to determine its effectiveness, as seen in the British Association of Dermatologists' guidelines for the care of patients with actinic keratosis 2017, where the use of topical retinoid for chemoprevention of skin cancer was stopped early due to excessive all-cause mortality in the treatment group at interim analysis 1. Overall, retinol is a valuable ingredient in skincare, and its proper usage can lead to significant improvements in skin health and appearance, but it is crucial to follow proper application techniques and exercise caution when combining it with other active ingredients, as supported by the most recent and highest quality study available 1.
From the Research
Role of Retinol in Skincare
- Retinol influences the process of keratinization of the epidermis, improving stratum corneum structure and reducing transepidermal water loss 2
- It enhances mature skin by brightening hyperpigmentation and reducing the signs of photoageing 2, 3, 4
- Retinol treatment induces a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induces the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP 3
- Regular use of retinol typically results in brightening of the skin and reduced signs of ageing 2
Concentration and Tolerance
- 0.3% retinol was found to be better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported 3
- A comparative study found that 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin 3
- Retinol-based products were found to be comparable to tretinoin-based products in terms of efficacy and tolerability 5
Effects on Skin
- Retinol increases epidermal thickness, upregulates genes for collagen type 1 and collagen type 3, and increases procollagen I and procollagen III protein expression 4
- It reduces facial wrinkles and improves skin appearance 4, 5
- Retinol peel treatments can help to increase the amount of skin surface lipids in women during menopause 6